Interesting

I stumbled on to this article recently and thought the second paragraph summed things up nicely.
Some of the pricing is pessimistic while some seems very optimistic but a lot of good points
are made. http://www.classicboat.co.uk/practical-advice/restore-your-first-wooden-yacht-an-overview/

Sneak peek

First coat of varnish on the mast

Finally the weather dried up again so I got the last few bits done on the mast and got the first
coat of varnish on. I've been keeping it covered over in the shed so I'm happy to finally start
getting the timber sealed up.
I had to make and fit the hounds, cut the tenon in the base and mortice through for the pulley
at the top and then finally got the first coat on, now just a minimum of six coats to go including
sanding between each coat. Certainly a labour intensive type of varnish. The first coat is thinned
50% then 75% for the second so it should soak well in.
I also got the bulk of the iroko for the cockpit prepared and glued what needed to be glued.

These small blocks are high up on the mast, I think they are something to do with the peak halyard, I'll soon figure it out when I start rigging

Engine In

This is not a recommendation, Just how I managed to get the engine in, It would probably have been
safe enough if I had another one or two people to help but I just pressed on and it worked out.
Now I need a rest.

I started with the board on the ground and by pushing the engine up the first half, Then I winched it to the other end and I was able to lift this end up onto the ladder

Nothing to hang it from and the steambox its on was pretty narrow

Then I slid it across onto boards on the aft deck

Then winched it into the cockpit

Then up out of the cockpit and down through the hatch

Shaft & tube again

I spent another whole day working on the shaft and tube. I made a block to mount the gland
on between the frames. Its a real pain because the front of it has to be housed out for the
gland to sit flat against but because of the length of the tube it has to be mounted on the back
of the frames, which means I can't just twist of the gland and shape it. I have to twist the tube
to unscrew the gland then take out the timber and shape it.
The cutlass has a white metal bearing and there is a bearing on the gland end as well, so if the
face of the board isn't perfectly inline with the tube, when the bolts that hold the gland to the
board are tightened it locks up the shaft. I was pretty happy with it by the end of the day so
I sealed in the tube, put the coach bolts in the cutlass housing and cut the shaft to length.
Next is get the engine in I think.

Engine beds

I got hold of some teak the other day and managed to get the bridge deck top and transverse
piece of the engine beds glued up.
Today I lined up the engine beds and fastened them in place, the bearers just need coach bolting
down. and the engine can be dropped in. Dropped in sounds a bit easy as I have absolutely no
idea how I'm going to get it into the boat, but where theres a will theres a way.
I marked out a few pieces of the cockpit, I have the teak for the cockpit sole boards and I have a
few other bits to get ready before I get hold of the sheeting. I'd like to get the engine in before the
cockpit is done now so I don't have to lower it through the hatch.
I also got a good part of the bilge coated in Danboline.

Little Pal

The page 1914 - 2013 I just added is from the paper work I have for Teal, It is word for word from the National Maritime Museum in Cornwall and has some interesting history on Teal as well as a list of all her registered owners so with any luck if any of there names are ever googled by themselves or their descendents it might just pop up.